Toledo in Spain

Toledo is a small town huddled around the River Tagus, but was once of great importance and indeed was the capital of Spain.

I had no idea what delights were in store for us. Toledo is like a maze of winding narrow streets with  beautiful  architecture.

The place oozes ambience, atmosphere and vivaciousness.  Yet I  felt like I was living in the past, a strange experience. The buildings and churches came alive, not just another church.

When the Goths conquered Spain, they made Toledo the capital of their empire and it started to expand.  The Castilio of San Servando ( now a youth hostel), the nearby Puente Alcantara bridge and the Puerto Cambron gate,much resored are the principle relics.

Moorish Era

The Moors made Toledo one of the most important cities in Spain. Two mosques and 3 gates remain of the Moorish era.

The MEZQUITO DEL CRISTO DE LA LUZ, dating from 12^th century is the best preserved

RECONQUEST

After conquering Toledo in 1085, the first major town to be taken, Alfonso made Toledo the capital of his empire. During this time the city became famous for it´s ‘School of Translators’ which translated Greek, Latin, and Hebrew texts into Castillian, founding the basis of modern Castillian language.

Churches were built in the MUDEJAR style, a cross between Moorish and Christian styles, typified by their geometrical patterns.

There is today still a large Jewish influence in Toledo and there are two synagogues, SINAGOGA DE SANTA M ARIA LA BLANCA AND SINAGOGA DE EL TRANSITO are also built in mudejar style.

If I had to choose only one building to visit it would be the impressive Cathedral, build between 1220 and 1492.

My first view of this majestic cathedral

Words cannot explain the magnificence and opulence of this cathedral which houses works of art by El ¨Greco, Goya, and Van Dyck plus a display of pure gold and silver reliquary.

King Phillip ll replaced Toledo with Madrid as the capital of Spain and Toledo´s importance began to decline but some fine buildings remain

The MUSEO DE SANTA CURZ founded in C16th . It includes El Greco´s ‘The Assumption of the Virgin.

The Burial of Count Orgaz

El Greco a local hero revered everywhere. He was born in Crete but moved to Toledo in 1577 at the age of 36 and lived and painted in Toledo until his death at the age of 73.

His works are widely available to see but perhaps his best know is Burial of Count Orgaz in the Iglesia San Tome.

This took my breath away as the young  guide lead us through every aspect of this enormous painting.  There are around another 30 paintings spread around the various buildings in Toledo.

Today Toledo is a thriving national centre for Spanish stainless steel and there are hundreds of shops selling knives and armour of every variety  plus kitchen utensils.

Marzipan is also widely available especially the variety produced by the nuns…. Because it is blessed!

We were fascinated to watch   men painstakingly applying their skills in gold inlay.

After an impressive, exhausting but exhilarating 3 days in Toledo we headed home via La Mancha and the windmills and statues of Don Quijote and Sancho.

Part of the landscape of La Mancha.

Of course this was after a wonderful traditional Spanish  lunch of Castilla La Mancha and the wine tasting in the bodega.!!!

Was the stainless steelstatue of Don Quijote really moving or was it the wine?

One of my companions on the coach had this to say about Toledo:

‘I heard a gasp of wonder fly through the coach as we beheld a fairy castle rising from the flat horizons of chequered fields.  The island promontory of spires and medieval roofscapes were held together by the Tagus River, on its way to the Atlantic via Portugal thousands of miles away.

Toledo is the repository of more than 2,000 years of history. Its masterpieces are the product of heterogeneous civilizations in an environment where the existence of three major religions – Judaism, Muslin and Christian.

My first impressions were ‘how clean’, how cherished, how exquisite.  The roads too narrow for cars, so how do they get their shopping home?  (You have to park and walk). A rabbit warren of narrow streets and yet even more narrow streets.  Always with a spire or exquisite building above or ahead.

What a wonderful, fun time we all had together.

When I wrote about Sorolla as one of the best Spanish artists http://judithatkinson.com/following-the-trail-of-7-spanish-artists, I did not realize that there is a Sorolla garden in a suburb of Madrid. Here´s the link from Notes in Spanish http://www.notesinspanish.com/?p=1418A Secret in Madrid

Spring is here and last weekend we had a taste of Summer. We were able to try Kayaking, stand up paddle and sailing. It was great to

fee lthe warmth of the sun on our bodies although the water is still too chilly for me.

We net some old friends whom we had not seen for 5 years.  Great atmosphere all helped along by great music.

It was a glorious day for a Spring Walk but it became more of a discovery and adventure. When we arrived at the start of the trail it said 35 minutes. As we moved further in it became rockier to almost rock climbing.

I have to say I was surprised to see so many varieties of wildflowers and greenery.

When we finally arrived at the cove it was like a trip back into history of pirates and stolen bullion. It was reported to be more tobacco and some drugs.

The shanty dwellings are the remains of the original huts. There is still if course no electricity or running water but it does appear that a few hardened souls arrive in their small boats. We did spy a generator!!!!ng to fol

The for the walk back trying to follow the trail. A was a bit like, follow the yellow brick road or Hansel and Gretal.

If you are truly looking for a great getaway look no further.

I would love to have a real estate’s description.

What an experience we were to be treated to when we walked part of the Sierra de Mariola. As none experienced walkers ourselves we had no idea what would happen or how we would endure the days hike. The weather was not the kindest and as we began to climb the wind became so cold.

However, our senses were in for a feast and the wind and the walk were soon forgotten.

The Sierra de Mariola mountain range covers over 16,000 hectares and was declared a nature reserve in 2002.

By the way we only walked one route!

It has some prominent features, springs, country houses, numerous natural resources.

It is an area noted for its medicinal and aromatic plants down through the centuries

Previous settlers have been ice-dealers, shepherds, wood cutters and farmers

There are countless archaeological findings that illustrate human heritage, especially the cavas (snow wells) from 16^th to 20^th century. These are cellars or vaults that were used to store snow, at first for food preservation and later for therapeutic uses, even finally ice cream!

Snow Caves

We saw castles perched on top of the mountains, chapels, a monastery and a factory.

Convent D' Agres

The factory now has gone into ruin but it was a flour mill and a paper mill famous for its smoking papers. Later it was turned into a textile factory. The locals hated it and all that it represented so to this day they have no interest in restoration.

The energy for the factory was generated by the Vinlopó River and which has its source high up in the Sierra from the natural springs.

Humans

There are still today masías, (self sufficient country homesteads,) farming, forestry and livestock.  All the family living in one unit.

They have a rich cuisine, specialties being olla stew, borreta filled beans, pericana dried pepper and cold meats dressed with herbs.

Sweets are also greatly appreciated, coated nuts, sweet potato and almond cakes.

The most valued drink is herbero, anise liquor macerated with herbs off the mountain. Said to alleviate many ailments!!!!

In the midst of this natural paradise the people who live up here nowadays drive their cars into the local towns and of course the youngsters do not wish to live on the land.

Flora

The area is the home 1400 plants and is famous for its medicinal herbs such as Mariola sage, chamomile, thyme, cat’s tail, hypericum and rock tea.

There is a whole range of trees from the pine to kermes oak and Teixera d’Agres, yew tree grove, where you discover this magic tree.

Fauna

The great diversity of the area and its terrain also offers a diversity of fauna.

Amphibians –frogs and toads.

Reptiles –lizards and snakes

Birds- from finches, robins and partridges to golden eagles, vultures, falcons.

Mammals – boar, rabbit, wild cat, weasels, badgers and foxes.

This is a protected space of superb landscape beauty and great natural and cultural value to be kept for future generations.

It was a day of discovery for us with too much to mention here.

This is a place for everyone to visit to develop a greater understanding of our living planet, its unique eco systems and pure beauty.

There are recreation areas and picnic areas.

If you go with a group like Aveninça, as we did, you can learn from other like minded people who are happy to share their knowledge of plants and birds.

Sleep came very easily and next day I woke feeling so relaxed knowing that I had been at one with nature.

Sierra de Marriola in Winter

There is a plan of activities for everyone who comes to Teulada Moraira this spring, full of emotions, feelings and experience.

Apart from the annual Easter festivities there is a large programme of activities such as: HOT AIR BALLOON FLIGHT, KAYAK, THEATRE, DIVING, SAILING CONCERTS, GREAT PAELLAS, TREKKING, BEACH VOLLEYBALL AND MOORS AND CHRISTIANS IN JUNE.

For more information in English and Spanish contac:t www.teulada-moraira.es

Video Experience Teulada-Moraira